Monday Morning Local Crags: New River Gorge, WV

Monday morning local crags is an ongoing feature that we’ll be posting on Mondays. Mainly we want to make you nostalgic for the weekend and see if any of you climbing fiends have some insider info on specific routes or special spots where you love to go climbing.

Flowing water is the creative force shaping the geologic features of the New River Gorge as the river continues to sculpt the longest and deepest river gorge in the Appalachian Mountains. On display in the gorge one can find a variety of unique geologic features and processes that exemplify the geology of the Appalachian Plateau, including the exposure of over 1,000 feet (300 m) of sandstone and shale and house-sized boulders.

New River Gorge is also one of the most popular climbing areas on the east coast with over 1,400 established rock climbs. The cliffs at “The New” are located just below the rim of the gorge and are made up of a very hard Nuttall sandstone. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes, with occasional large roofs. Almost all climbs are one pitch long and range from 30 to 120 feet (37 m) in height. The majority of the routes in the gorge are for advanced climbers in 5.10-5.12 range of the Yosemite Decimal System with about an equal number of traditional and sport climbs.

Classic climb, Four sheets to the wind (5.9) at Junkyard cliff in New River Gorge