Monday Morning Local Crags: Little Falls, NY

Monday morning local crags is an ongoing feature that we’ll be posting on Mondays. Mainly we want to make you nostalgic for the weekend and see if any of you climbing fiends have some insider info on specific routes or special spots where you love to go climbing.

The Little Falls/ Moss Island climbing area is considered by many to be one of the premier top rope areas in all of New York state. Locals have climbed at this area for longer than any recorded history. However, correlating with the explosion of rock climbing in America, awareness of the crag grew from the late 1960’s through the early 1990’s. Most of the climbs in this area were put up on lead, but the easy access and plentiful anchor possibilities make it the perfect place to set up a top rope. There are over 120 recorded climbs on Moss Island and they range in grades from 5.2 to 5.12C. Beginners have plenty of easy to moderate climbs to choose from and even the most experienced climbers have been challenged here. This crag is the perfect place to learn the basics, accommodates large groups well and is ideal for learning top rope anchor setting techniques.

Moss Island: Little Falls, NYThis is a nice area to climb and one of the few between The Gunks and The Adirondacks. It’s best known for its most popular cliff, Moss Island, a band of rocks on the Mohawk River. Almost anything can be top-roped and with almost 120 routes packed into a 900 foot long stretch of rocks you’ll find something for everyone. Most things can be lead with traditional gear and there are a handful of sport routes in the area as well.