Monday Morning Local Crags

Monday morning local crags is an ongoing feature that we’ll be posting on Mondays. Mainly we want to make you nostalgic for the weekend and see if any of you climbing fiends have some insider info on specific routes or special spots where you love to go climbing.

We’ll begin this week with Great Falls!

Great Falls is a National Park – avoid the picnicker rush on pretty weekend afternoons. There is a fee for admission and parking is at a premium. The area is a picturesque river gorge with a view of the falls and the majority of the climbs are on the Virginia side. The rock is partially-metamorphosed schist composed of granite and quartz crystals.

While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing as protection will slip or break out. Most of the climbs are in the 50 ft. range and tend to be overhanging. Bring plenty of toperope anchor for trees about 15-20 ft. from the edge of the cliff. There are over 100 climbs between 5.5-5.8 and 130 climbs between 5.9-5.12 with the majority of climbs being 5.10 or better. The Virginia side is shaded on summer afternoons. The fall is the best time to climb here and upstream climbs offer sun until late in the day.

Do you have any routes that you know and love in Great Falls?

Also, check out our guided trips page if you’re interested in taking on some of these great local crags with us!