We here at Vertical Rock love to post the coolest rock climbing news that we see all over the internet, and we stumbled upon Alessio Roverato, a young Italian climber who makes it his goal to pick out unknown, difficult routes in remote, or at least out of the way, locations.
His newest route – Momento Libero – takes a line up the impressive South East Face of Sasso Rosso whose characteristic yellow roofs and overhangs are clearly visible from the village San Gaetano di Valstagna.
The new 1000 ft outing weaves its way up slabs, roofs and overhangs and offers extremely exposed climbing up to 8a max and 7a/b obligatory, “right through the heart” of the yellow overhang in the centre of the face.
The route was established over a number of days and also required a good dose of “alpine experience”… For those who don’t know it, this is the key to Roverato’s search.
Everything remained on hold for a year and a half until this spring, when I set my sights on the project together with my girlfriend. I finished the route off at the start of summer and during the months in between there were all the usual things associated with a first ascent: that sinking feeling in my stomach when a hold broke and I found myself suddenly hanging off the cliff I hadn’t had the courage to eight, various headfirst falls with a TV size, 19inch block, etc.
All pitches were freed individually but the route still awaits its first one-day ascent. It’s a pleasant line which I recommend to those who want to climb off the beaten track.